Tomorrows Headline: Accidental Ecuadorian becomes Premature Muslim.
For those who didn't hear about Andrea and my jaunt through the Ecuadorian President's palace in order to get a "foto" with a Palace guard for a misguided scavenger hunt, let me throw out some prime details. It began with me walking into a mealstrom. I saw the entrance to the palace and made it to the gate before Andrea called my name. I lifted my head to see about 30 Ecuadorians including a guard laughing at me. I didn't see the long line over the brim of my panama hat (this would become a common theme as I full on ran into a road sign in Cuenca two days before for the same reason, that time it was an SUV of young Ecuadorian men laughing at me). We stood in line about 20 minutes before a man came along and collected our passports. We should have escaped then, but a mix of intrigue, naivete and adventurous desire kept Andrea and I in line. Soon we found ourselves in the lobby of the palace going through metal detectors. We couldn't stop erupting into giggle fits at intervals because of the utter seriousness of the scenario we had gotten ourselves into. The tour began with a complementary photo in front of the presidential fountain. We quickly got the impression that this was a right of passage for the Ecuadorian people. Our impression was confirmed when we came across the Ecuadorian flag in a glass case with the words "salute the flag" in Spanish gold emblazoned on the glass. Underneath us was a floor mat with two spots to place our feet and the words "bow to the flag" in Spanish.
With 30 stony faced Ecuadorians staring at us, there was nothing we could do but bow to the Ecuadorian flag in the Presidential Palace in Quito. We spent the rest of the free tour wide-eyed and red-faced, holding in our self-directed laughter. We saw the Yellow room (adorned with a portrait of every Ecuadorian president since Sucre freed the state from the Spaniards), the room where the senate meets, and the gigantic dining room with flower pieces the size of a small elephant made of real flowers (we checked). A random Ecuadorian man took a picture of us with his cell phone because he thought our plight was hilarious. We thought he was taking a picture of the trinkets in the glass case behind us, it was awkward. Divulgence: THERE IS NO WORD FOR AWKWARD IN ARABIC OR IN SPANISH (the closest you can get is shame, uncomfortable, or clumsy). This is unfortunate because a good 75% of my intercultural experiences can be described as such. We retrieved our passports and finally got a picture with an EP Ecuadorian Policia. It turns out that the traditional guards with the crazy hairpieces and the colorful uniforms did not have work because it was Saturday. The entire tour was unnecessary.
This is how Andrea "Dre" Berlinghof and Anne "El Hob" Hobson became Ecuadorians. Purely an accident, no offense President Correa.
Now apparently, all you need to do to convert to Islam is say the following with a witness and then take a shower:
It turns out that the above lines are included in "Al Adhan" the daily prayer that echoes across the city 5 times a day. On day 3 of class, our Fus-ha (Written Arabic teacher) gave us a copy and told us to read through it and practice it for homework so that we could understand the prayer, one of which happens during that class. Oblivious to cultural specificities, as I so often am. I practiced later that night in my homestay living room...
Allahu Akbar
God is Great
(said four times)
Ashhadu an la ilaha illa Allah
I bear witness that there is no god except the One God.
(said two times)
Ashadu anna Muhammadan Rasool Allah
I bear witness that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
(said two times)
Hayya 'ala-s-Salah
Hurry to the prayer (Rise up for prayer)
(said two times)
Hayya 'ala-l-Falah
Hurry to success (Rise up for Salvation)
(said two times)
Allahu Akbar
God is Great
[said two times]
La ilaha illa Allah
There is no god except the One God
I did in fact take a shower that night. I do believe the significance was lost on everyone, but I did prematurely convert to Islam. Next week we go to the Badia to live in a Bedouin homestay for a week. We wear the traditional dress, a hijab, and make sure we are entirely culturally appropriate (which includes only using the inside toilet, not leaving the house without a male escort, not smiling and looking into men's eyes directly, and for me...digesting bread). The whole sha-bang. Judging by the trend of relative cultural vanity outlined in this post, I will probably come back engaged or married totally on accident. It is also possible that I might own a camel or a horse that I accidentally traded for some dates or a cigar. I apologize in advance for the inconvenience it will cause everyone.
I am not yet ready to practice Islam for the cultural and intellectual benefit like I intend to. My goal is to reach the point where I am comfortable practicing the religion of my homestay family; yet I still feel like a foreigner daily. Yesterday, I took advantage of an opportunity to play indoor soccer with Jordanian men and other students from ours (Biff, Megan, Mumtaz) and other programs. It was the most fun I have had yet in Jordan, though I got some wicked and much-deserved rug burn. It was the first times I didn't feel like a tourist. I wish I knew soccer vocab in Arabic though, like "line, square, back, pass, up". Luckily "gooooooool" is internationally understood. Last night I directed the cab to my street entirely in Arabic, alone and on my own. I'm getting there.
I feel like Jordan is a man that continues to keep proposing to me but I feel like I don't know or trust him enough. Every smooth sunset during my walks, every delicious beverage (Sahlab, anyone??), every dining experience, Jordan wants me to let down my guard and declare that I love it just like I loved Cuba, Anguila, and Ecuador before it.
http://jordanpicture.blogspot.com/2009/05/sahlab-recipe.html
Two days ago, I walked through the fruit market downtown next to King Hussein Mosque. It was incredible cultural experience. 1001 fruits, spices and nuts that I have never seen before. I could feel the culture wrap around me and yet, the familiar walls were there. I had one earphone in, quietly playing "The Cave" by Mumford & Sons. This is a defensive technique that I use in public places and in cabs. It means "I don't want to talk to you, stranger" or "I can't hear you, you cat-calling men". It gives me an excuse to ignore things I want to, and participate in the world when I wish. My Peruvian Hat serves a similar purpose. It is my hijab, it makes me feel more comfortable in a culture where there are few women walking the street, and those that are are usually with their husbands and adorned in the hijab. Lastly, I wear blublockers when I can to avoid making direct eye contact with men. This can be interpreted as "I want to chat" and if you smile while you make eye contact, the meaning can jump to "I am a prostitute" in extreme cases. Most men would not take advantage of you but the point is that some (*cough *cough Snake on the Plane) would jump to this conclusion that all Americans are like Shakira in her music videos (I've already ran into this specific misconception here). The truth is, I don't know if I will ever be able to love Amman. To be blunt, I cannot be myself in Amman, and our relationship lacks mutual respect. Yet, I had a similar problem in downtown Quito. I was still a foreigner after 3 weeks, and yet I was able to make compromises and feel comfortable despite the fixed stares and whistling. I feel like a lot of this is just getting used to it. The question is, will I ever get used to being a woman in a Muslim state? To be determined.
In summary, I am not yet in love with Jordan but I think that seeing the countryside, specifically Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea, will change my opinion just as Cayambe and Illiniza Norte changed helped me "culturally acclimate" to Ecuador. My friends and I are signing up for a half marathon at the Dead Sea in April. If I complete it, that will mean that I will have reached my physical limit at the highest point I will ever be (19,000 feet) and the lowest point (-1388 ft) on the planet within 50 days of each other. I'm only getting one side of the picture at the moment. And I know that cities can be ugly places... Here is a clip from Baltimore's "The Wire":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtuMw0KRbcc&feature=related
In other news, today is the day that high school students get the result of their state testing. If they pass, it is customary to make a ruckus in the form of shooting guns into the air or driving around honking. I wish we had a custom like this.
I await my "Mawaige" to Jordan...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbqv3MwwVd8
But for now...
"I wear my sunglasses [during the day]
So I can, so I can
See the light that's right before my eyes
Don't switch the blade
On the guy in shades, oh-no!"
-Al Hob
For those who didn't hear about Andrea and my jaunt through the Ecuadorian President's palace in order to get a "foto" with a Palace guard for a misguided scavenger hunt, let me throw out some prime details. It began with me walking into a mealstrom. I saw the entrance to the palace and made it to the gate before Andrea called my name. I lifted my head to see about 30 Ecuadorians including a guard laughing at me. I didn't see the long line over the brim of my panama hat (this would become a common theme as I full on ran into a road sign in Cuenca two days before for the same reason, that time it was an SUV of young Ecuadorian men laughing at me). We stood in line about 20 minutes before a man came along and collected our passports. We should have escaped then, but a mix of intrigue, naivete and adventurous desire kept Andrea and I in line. Soon we found ourselves in the lobby of the palace going through metal detectors. We couldn't stop erupting into giggle fits at intervals because of the utter seriousness of the scenario we had gotten ourselves into. The tour began with a complementary photo in front of the presidential fountain. We quickly got the impression that this was a right of passage for the Ecuadorian people. Our impression was confirmed when we came across the Ecuadorian flag in a glass case with the words "salute the flag" in Spanish gold emblazoned on the glass. Underneath us was a floor mat with two spots to place our feet and the words "bow to the flag" in Spanish.
This is how Andrea "Dre" Berlinghof and Anne "El Hob" Hobson became Ecuadorians. Purely an accident, no offense President Correa.
Now apparently, all you need to do to convert to Islam is say the following with a witness and then take a shower:
- Say: "Ash-hadu an la ilaha ill Allah." (I bear witness that there is no diety but Allah.)
- Say: "Wa ash-hadu ana Muhammad ar-rasullallah." (And I bear witness that Muhammad is the Messenger of Allah.)
It turns out that the above lines are included in "Al Adhan" the daily prayer that echoes across the city 5 times a day. On day 3 of class, our Fus-ha (Written Arabic teacher) gave us a copy and told us to read through it and practice it for homework so that we could understand the prayer, one of which happens during that class. Oblivious to cultural specificities, as I so often am. I practiced later that night in my homestay living room...
Allahu Akbar
God is Great
(said four times)
Ashhadu an la ilaha illa Allah
I bear witness that there is no god except the One God.
(said two times)
Ashadu anna Muhammadan Rasool Allah
I bear witness that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
(said two times)
Hayya 'ala-s-Salah
Hurry to the prayer (Rise up for prayer)
(said two times)
Hayya 'ala-l-Falah
Hurry to success (Rise up for Salvation)
(said two times)
Allahu Akbar
God is Great
[said two times]
La ilaha illa Allah
There is no god except the One God
I did in fact take a shower that night. I do believe the significance was lost on everyone, but I did prematurely convert to Islam. Next week we go to the Badia to live in a Bedouin homestay for a week. We wear the traditional dress, a hijab, and make sure we are entirely culturally appropriate (which includes only using the inside toilet, not leaving the house without a male escort, not smiling and looking into men's eyes directly, and for me...digesting bread). The whole sha-bang. Judging by the trend of relative cultural vanity outlined in this post, I will probably come back engaged or married totally on accident. It is also possible that I might own a camel or a horse that I accidentally traded for some dates or a cigar. I apologize in advance for the inconvenience it will cause everyone.
I am not yet ready to practice Islam for the cultural and intellectual benefit like I intend to. My goal is to reach the point where I am comfortable practicing the religion of my homestay family; yet I still feel like a foreigner daily. Yesterday, I took advantage of an opportunity to play indoor soccer with Jordanian men and other students from ours (Biff, Megan, Mumtaz) and other programs. It was the most fun I have had yet in Jordan, though I got some wicked and much-deserved rug burn. It was the first times I didn't feel like a tourist. I wish I knew soccer vocab in Arabic though, like "line, square, back, pass, up". Luckily "gooooooool" is internationally understood. Last night I directed the cab to my street entirely in Arabic, alone and on my own. I'm getting there.
I feel like Jordan is a man that continues to keep proposing to me but I feel like I don't know or trust him enough. Every smooth sunset during my walks, every delicious beverage (Sahlab, anyone??), every dining experience, Jordan wants me to let down my guard and declare that I love it just like I loved Cuba, Anguila, and Ecuador before it.
http://jordanpicture.blogspot.com/2009/05/sahlab-recipe.html
Two days ago, I walked through the fruit market downtown next to King Hussein Mosque. It was incredible cultural experience. 1001 fruits, spices and nuts that I have never seen before. I could feel the culture wrap around me and yet, the familiar walls were there. I had one earphone in, quietly playing "The Cave" by Mumford & Sons. This is a defensive technique that I use in public places and in cabs. It means "I don't want to talk to you, stranger" or "I can't hear you, you cat-calling men". It gives me an excuse to ignore things I want to, and participate in the world when I wish. My Peruvian Hat serves a similar purpose. It is my hijab, it makes me feel more comfortable in a culture where there are few women walking the street, and those that are are usually with their husbands and adorned in the hijab. Lastly, I wear blublockers when I can to avoid making direct eye contact with men. This can be interpreted as "I want to chat" and if you smile while you make eye contact, the meaning can jump to "I am a prostitute" in extreme cases. Most men would not take advantage of you but the point is that some (*cough *cough Snake on the Plane) would jump to this conclusion that all Americans are like Shakira in her music videos (I've already ran into this specific misconception here). The truth is, I don't know if I will ever be able to love Amman. To be blunt, I cannot be myself in Amman, and our relationship lacks mutual respect. Yet, I had a similar problem in downtown Quito. I was still a foreigner after 3 weeks, and yet I was able to make compromises and feel comfortable despite the fixed stares and whistling. I feel like a lot of this is just getting used to it. The question is, will I ever get used to being a woman in a Muslim state? To be determined.
In summary, I am not yet in love with Jordan but I think that seeing the countryside, specifically Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea, will change my opinion just as Cayambe and Illiniza Norte changed helped me "culturally acclimate" to Ecuador. My friends and I are signing up for a half marathon at the Dead Sea in April. If I complete it, that will mean that I will have reached my physical limit at the highest point I will ever be (19,000 feet) and the lowest point (-1388 ft) on the planet within 50 days of each other. I'm only getting one side of the picture at the moment. And I know that cities can be ugly places... Here is a clip from Baltimore's "The Wire":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtuMw0KRbcc&feature=related
In other news, today is the day that high school students get the result of their state testing. If they pass, it is customary to make a ruckus in the form of shooting guns into the air or driving around honking. I wish we had a custom like this.
I await my "Mawaige" to Jordan...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbqv3MwwVd8
But for now...
"I wear my sunglasses [during the day]
So I can, so I can
See the light that's right before my eyes
Don't switch the blade
On the guy in shades, oh-no!"
-Al Hob
We are all Ecuadorians now.
ReplyDeletetorpe tortuga en ecuador, hobita. te amo!
ReplyDelete